Patagonia Road Trip: Part 2 – Jurassic Lake/Estancia Laguna Verde Lodge
Jan 7th, 2012 by Rex Bryngelson
A bright rainbow from the crystalline waters of Jurassic Lake, Argentina. photo:©Rex Bryngelson
Ah yes! Jurassic Lake. This one has been on my list for quite some time and, it most certainly didn’t let me down.
Jurassic is a tough place to get to to say the least but, well worth the effort. Not only does it require getting to El Calafate in southern Argentine Patagonia, it also involves driving a another 6 hours or so through some of Patagonia’s most remote and godforsaken terrain. On my recent trip this was complicated by the fact that there is a fuel crisis affecting Argentina at the moment and, if it weren’t for a couple of generous estancia owners along the way, we might still be there. All part of the adventure and, as I said, well worth it!
There are 2 main options for fishing Jurassic Lake and on this trip we chose to visit the Estancia Laguna Verde Lodge. The lodge is located a 3 hour drive on rough gravel road from Argentina’s famous Ruta 40 north/south highway. Upon first appearance, the lodge is anything but impressive but, upon entering, any second thoughts about the accomoidations immediately melt away. All of the creature comforts are there and some.
Laguna Verde Lodge at Jurassic Lake, Argentina. photo:©Rex Bryngelson
Inside Laguna Verde Lodge at Jurassic Lake, Argentina. photo:©Rex Bryngelson
Estancia Laguna Verde Lodge is not located right on Jurassic Lake but just a short distance away on the smaller “Laguna Verde” that, as we soon found out, has some great fish in it. The first afternoon following lunch, our guide Karim took us to the far side of it. Often this side of the lake is not fished due to wind and waves but, the mild conditions during our visit allowed us the opportunity.
Within minutes of finding a casting position among the angular boulders, both David and I were quickly tied into some hefty rainbows and each landed close to a dozen 2-4 lb fish before deciding it was “Cerevza Media”.
A stout rainbow trout from Laguna Verde. photo:©Rex Bryngelson(w/help from guide Karim)
David and Karim with a Laguna Verde rainbow. photo:©Rex Bryngelson
On Day 2, by way of a set of Honda 4 wheelers, Karim took us to the nearby Rio Barancoso. Laguna Verde has 11 km of this river running through its property and it was our very good fortune that in early December the river is loaded with large rainbows coming up from Jurassic Lake to spawn. Apparently there is a similar run in March/April. We were brought to a favorite pool along the river a mile or so above the lake. Understating it, we did quite well here, each landing several massive rainbow trout. I stuck to dries and caught plenty but, David switched to a nymph rig and really went to town.
Rainbow trout from the Rio Barrancoso, Jurassic Lake, Argentina. photo:©Rex Bryngelson (w/help from guide Karim)
For me it was another case of the big one getting way. I’d guess a 10 lb + that got downstream around some boulders and into the fast whitewater.
The one that got away! Rio Barrancoso. photo:©Rex Bryngelson (w/help from guide Karim)
Later that afternoon we went to a place within the Estancia on the shore of Jurassic Lake called Monsters Bay. The lodge has a nice roofed picnic area where we had lunch and a glass of the obligatory Argentina Malbec. The trip to this spot is where it really sunk in what a unique experience fishing at Jurassic Lake truly is. The surrounding terrain consists of very rugged fractured volcanic rock, quite arid and with very little vegetation growing except in a few isolated areas. But, what is really wild is when you get to the lake, the entire shoreline is made up of what looks to be coral. Apparently, because Jurassic Lake is a closed system with no outflow, a bluegreen algae flourishes that excretes calcium which accumulates as globular formations called Stromatolites lining the entire shoreline.
The crusty corral like materials all along the shore can make for great traction but it is also be quite hard on fly lines and leaders should one of the lake’s massive trout decided to take refuge in it.
Monsters Bay at Jurassic Lake, Argentina. photo:©Rex Bryngelson
Adding even more to the surreal visual experience was that fact that large trout could be seen cruising the shallow waters near shore and one felt as if you were perhaps stalking rooster fish in Baja or something rather than rainbow trout in Patagonia. The lodge is in the process of developing an extensive road system to access several other protected bays along the lake via 4 wheelers. In addition to Monsters Bay we also visited Finger Bay, Tazman Point, Sick Bay and El Puesto and at each spot had good luck sight fishing to large trout cruising the shallows.
And yes, the famous Morrish Mouse works great at Jurassic. photo:©Rex Bryngelson
Luciano Alba and his father Roberto own Laguna Verde. Luciano was there during our stay and could not have been more friendly or accommodating. A friend referred to him as “El Guaton Simpatico”. One morning Luciano accompanied us in his Land Rover to fish another small river within his ranch and he and I tag teamed catching several 3-4 lb rainbows each in the narrow creek.
Owner Luciano Alba with a nice rainbow from the Rio Moro. photo:©Rex Bryngelson
Laguna Verde Lodge at Jurassic Lake is a truly unique experience for the adventurous angler that I highly recommend. A great trip especially if combined with some of the excellent sightseeing around El Calafate and Fitzroy or, perhaps along with some fishing locations in southern Patagonia or on the Rio Grande in Tierra del Fuego.
There are still several excellent dates available for this season at Laguna Verde Lodge:
February 4-11
March 17-24
March 24-30
For more info on fishing Jurassic Lake at Laguna Verde Lodge or, any of the many great destinations in Chile or Argentina, please be sure to contact me at: rex@flywatertravel.com
